The Dordogne Valley, or Perigord as it is also called by the locals, is home to many of the “most beautiful villages in France”. This area is not as well known as others in the country, but it is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful. These 5 places are among the best sites in the region, and a visit to the Dordogne is not complete without seeing them all.
1. Domme-Domme is a village located on top of a rocky cliff overlooking the
Dordogne valley. From the viewpoint, the view embraces the valley
from the meander of Montfort in the east to Beynac in the west. The view of the calm river and farm fields belies the violence that took place here in the Middle Ages.
Domme is a bastide town that was founded by Philip the Bold in 1283, so it’s actually newer than other towns in the area. People at this time were encouraged to go to the newly founded towns, called bastides, most of which were planned around a central covered market area. There are numerous bastide towns in France dating from this general period. Although worth a visit anytime, Domme is especially pleasant on market days when you find homegrown and homemade fruit and vegetables, sausages, olives, cheeses, cured hams and of course a Dordogne staple, the foie gras Check any of the local Tourist Offices to find the opening hours of the markets in Domme or other towns.
2. La Roque Gageac- This charming village is nestled against a cliff that drops vertically into the Dordogne River. It features attractive little streets with interesting houses, churches and other buildings, including the Manoir de Tarde, a manor house of the once locally famous Tarde family. One stretch has abundant semi-tropical plant life, as the protection of the cliff is such that the flora there can survive even in the winter months.
A walking trail runs behind the buildings at the bottom of the cliff and offers great views and photo ops. Troglodyte caves are also found around here and are worth a visit.
3. Beynac – About 2 miles down the road is beautiful Beynac. The Chateau de Beynac stands on a remarkable site, rising from the top of a rock and dominating the
valley dotted with hills crowned with castles. The castle was once captured by Richard the Lionheart, and over the years and during numerous wars it was destroyed and then rebuilt. There is a plummeting drop of almost 500 feet. from the castle to the river, and the view is spectacular. The panorama includes the nearby castles of Marqueyssac, Castelnaud and Fayrac. The village, hidden at the foot of the cliff adjacent to the river, is where the movie “Chocolat” was filmed. A steep path known locally as the Caminal del Panieraire (basket maker’s path; this was seen in the opening scenes of the film “Chocolat”) leads from the bottom of the village, through rows of Renaissance houses dating from the 15 to 17. centuries, up to the castle and the church on top. This hike is definitely recommended, but it gets steep towards the top. Tours of the castle are normally conducted in French, but tours are offered in English on some mornings. Check with one of the local tourist offices for availability.
4. Castelnaud: This “strong castle”, or fortified castle, is only about 2 kilometers from the castle of Beynac, and it was between the two that the battlefront between the English and French moved during the Hundred Years War. The castle changed hands between the two sides on numerous occasions. There were several periods of restoration after the Middle Ages, the last one starting recently in 1969. The castle offers superior views of the Dordogne valley, and is also home to a museum of siege and medieval weapons. One can see several catapults in the courtyard, even from the valley below. There are also two movies, one about the weapons museum and one about the history of the castle. The surrounding village is picturesque, but be prepared for a steep climb on foot to reach the castle.
5. Sarlat: A bustling city today, Sarlat grew up around a Benedictine abbey founded in the 9th century. The abbots retained their power until the 13th century, when infighting and corruption led to their downfall. The 13th and early 14th centuries were a prosperous time for this busy trading city, but the Hundred Years’ War left it weakened and depopulated. This was followed by a period of rebuilding, and most of the houses in the town seen today were built between 1450 and 1500. This has created a very attractive Renaissance-style architectural unity. If possible, dine in one of the many restaurants in the old town and see the town at night as well, as it is attractively lit. The old town of Sarlat has several interesting places to visit, such as the Cathedral of Saint Sacerdos; the Maison de la Boetie, where Etienne de la Boetie, a famous writer and friend of Montaigne, who also influenced Rousseau, was born; the Hotel de Maleville; among others. There are many lovely shops, galleries and restaurants.
The Dordogne region is home to a number of other interesting sites in addition to the 5 described above. As these sites are about 10 kilometers from each other, one can comfortably visit all of them in two days. If you have more time to spend in the area, there are other castles and gardens to see, as well as canoeing, kayaking, and other activities. The area is very popular with both the British and the Dutch, many of whom have a second home in the region or have relocated there full-time. In my opinion, this is one of the most beautiful and pleasant parts of France. The food is excellent, and you can’t visit here without trying the confit or duck breast, duck confit, or duck breast. It goes without saying that trying some foie gras is practically mandatory.